It's Ballgown Time!

Note: these posts are being written up with a delay... I didn't get to posting them over break, but have a good chunk of the dress done.

I had been lusting over the pink ballgown for ages, (you know, the one I kept posting pictures of) but had had no luck in finding fabric for it. Wrong weight, wrong color, wrong sheen... I just couldn't get the correct tone, and didn't want to compromise and ruin my vision of the dress. Someday it will be mine--but for now, I am working on another ball gown!

I had been scouring ebay for fabric for ages when I found... IT. Sixteen yards of bone colored, 34"w antique silk. "Good heavens, that must have been extortionately expensive!" you must be thinking. Try $15.50 with $8 shipping. That's right, folks... all the yards I could wish for of high quality vintage stock for a little over a dollar a yard! I won the bid almost without contest. I was close to doing a victory dance, but didn't want to scare my roommate.

What do I do with this glorious good fortune? Well, that shouldn't come as a surprise... it's ballgown time! It's a very light, soft fabric, so anything very structured is out of the question.

Here is my chief inspiration at present:

So light and feminine!

I plan to add more of the contrasting color, and may do a point on the bodice. (I like the ribbon around the waist, but neglected to get the proper width of ribbon while I was at Haberman's, and don't have time for another trip. Rats!) I like the ruffles around the bottom of the skirt. I was originally planning on tiers, but liked the subtlety of the ruffles and how they show off the delicacy of the fabric. Currently, the skirt is made, and the first ruffle is almost ready to attach. Let me tell you... it is taking FOR. EVER. I don't know why, but this project is crawling along at a snail's pace. A tired snail. A tired snail with no motivation. Maybe it's just because I've been so busy otherwise, but still! The bodice is basically stitched together too, but still needs to have hooks and eyes, boning, and piping. So basically everything. 

Pictures of the progress coming soon... hopefully. You know how that goes. First full week of classes coming up... yikes!

New (To Me) Victorian Jewelry

I have been on a bit of an ebay kick lately. As a rule, most of the things I put on my watch list either:
A) Rocket up out of my price range, or
B) Are forgotten about on until bidding has already ended.
However, in the past few weeks, I've been lucky enough to snag a few lovely pieces of Victorian jewelry at a very reasonable price.

Piece #1: Signet Ring

I seriously tried 20 times to get a crisp picture.

This lovely little piece was perfect for me. It was re-sized at some point to around a 6, which fits on my pointer/left thumb. (I have tiny little hands.) And, most excitingly, it's engraved with a lovely letter "E"! Usually, my initials are hard to come by. The condition is lovely, and the detail is wonderful. I am a big fan.

Piece #2: Buckle Bracelet

It's more of an oval shape, but looks round from this angle.
The way it's made, the buckle sits off to one side.

I have been wanting a buckle forever, and couldn't believe I won this one for under $20 including shipping! It's in excellent condition, with a working clasp and hinge and good clear engraving. It's also on the small side, which makes it perfect for my little wrists/hands, as most bangle style bracelets slide right off.

I got to debut the buckle at Wolcott, but the ring didn't arrive until a few days later. I can't wait to sport them together at my next event, which at present looks to be the Midwinter's Ball in February. Until then, I can wear them around with my modern clothes. (Which I may or may not be doing already...) I can't even pick a favorite between the two... I just love them both to bits!

They go so nicely together!

Currently occupying the top slot on my accessories wishlist is a pair of original earrings, but those are reaaaally challenging to find to fit a college budget. I'd settle for a solid pair of repros, but those too are hard to come by. I'll have to keep an eye out--that's paid off so far!

Corset Cover Research

I really need a corset cover to go under my Garibaldi. The way my old corset was made, it didn't peek up much under my Swiss Body. My chemise served just fine as the underbodice, so I never worried about it overmuch. However, my new corset is cut a good inch or two higher in the front, and consequently shows. Thus, I have been looking for a style of corset cover to pattern something after when I'm on break, and can buckle down and make one. Here are some images I've come across that I really like! (Found on Google images and Pinterest.)

Cool sleeves! But would they get bunchy?

I like the huuuge trim on this one! And also the
wide decolletage.

I like these two a lot, and plan to do something toward one or the other. They both have a nice shape, and the lace adds some nice decoration without adding loads of time.

I'll probably *coughdefinitelycough* go with something simpler that doesn't involve hours of embroidery, but I loved these other examples I found and had to post them.

1869. So, a little late. But super cute!

From the '70s, so it's also a little late,
but DANG! I want it. A lot.

Evidence of Me in 1861

Hey look: I found a picture of me at Hastings... from 1861!

Strolling down the street, collecting admiring glances
from all the men in uniform. So, business as usual.

Ha! But for real, check out the outfit...

Look familiar?!

This stylish young lady is strolling around Baltimore, MD, boldly sporting a CSA 1st National Flag apron. Adding to her accessories, she has a Colt revolver jammed into the waistband of her apron. I may have to branch out in my accessorizing at events ;)

I was pretty excited when I ran across this in an issue of Harper's Weekly. To see the whole issue and/or a better resolution of this picture, head over to Son of the South here. Or just head over there anyway--Paul has the ENTIRE Civil War run of Harper's Weekly up on his site, among other things. It's so awesome, I have no words for it. Just go.

And while I'm posting about my apron again, I may as well add that it has been updated! I got it some military cuff-size buttons back at Hastings, to add to the Southern feel of the thing.

Ta-daaa!

And I recently found another very similar extant apron, this one being a children's piece made from cotton. It's currently housed at the Museum of the Confederacy in Richmond, and there's more info on it here. Also, it lets you zoom in enough to see stitching and construction details. Super helpful!

This seems to be the most popular style of Southern patriotic apron, which makes sense as the flag is so easily adapted to this form. I really love this piece, though!

That's all for now! I'm hoping to still post here and there, but now that classes are in full swing, we'll see what happens. For the immediate future, I'll be posting project wrap-ups from earlier in the summer that didn't fit into other posts, some research and inspiration, and a variety of other things. No brand new projects for now, though :(

Parasol Photos and Jackson!

Well, I fell off the face of the earth for the past week and a half. Sorry for the long wait on the parasol photos... here they are, in abundance! It was a nice day, so I trotted outside with Oswald (my faithful camera) and had a shoot.

Ta-daaa! This parasol is like my child ;*)

The still-bunchy insides :/

Folded up and ready to hit the road!

I can't get over the original lace!

The end. (Pun intended!)

The lining still isn't the best [insert understatement of the century] so I'll probably end up fiddling with it some more, eventually. For now, it keeps the sun off and looks super stylish, so I'm satisfied with that! Many ladies were quite envious of my Chantilly shade :)

The Jackson reenactment was this past weekend, which accounts for my absence. In the past couple of weeks, I have:
- Recovered the parasol
- Finished The Epic Striped Wrapper
- Re-set the cartridge pleating on the skirt of the blue and white plaid
- Boned the burgundy Swiss body
- Other miscellaneous maintenance and adjustments
- Made an entire new corset

Surprise! Yes, I just cranked out my first Victorian corset. The one I was wearing didn't fit too great (as it wasn't fit to me) and was too large to the point where it laced up all the way in the back and was still not nearly as tight as it should be. My very knowledgeable friend came over for a few sewing sessions/lessons and showed me how it was done. Look for another post about the corset experience after the JACKSON post, which will be next :) So many posts in the queue right now... be excited!!

Recovering the Parasol, Part I: Restoring, not Destroying

It is a truth universally acknowledged that it is terrifying to take scissors to an antique, with the intention of dismantling it. Here is a diagram of this horrifying process: 

Nevertheless, I took my tiny Ginghers to the parasol, in an attempt to get the silk off. The whole time, I muttered to myself, "I am restoring, not destroying!" It was only moderately comforting, but after a few minutes, the shock of cutting into an original piece wore off somewhat.

Phase 1: Separate lace and silk.

They were sewn together near the end of the spikes. A dozen or so snips, and the lace was free! Now we get a better picture of the condition of the silk canopy

Destroyed side

Not so destroyed side... looks like a pattern piece to me!

Phase 2: Remove silk from parasol

This took a little longer. Both the top silk and the lining were securely stitched to little holes in the spokes (will be handy later!) and to a few points up the line. Nevertheless, this went pretty much without incident. Since the lace is quite securely fastened on, I decided to leave it be and just attach the silk under it, if possible.

No more silk! Except for the little guards on the spokes,
which are still intact.

Next step: use the extant silk to make a pattern. There are salvageable panels from both silk shapes, so it shouldn't be too bad... I hope! My trip to Haberman's yesterday furnished me with the material for the new canopy. I happened to find silk in exactly the same color as what had come off the original! (I should have enough of it to line it, too, should I decide to do so in the same color.) It also furnished me with the gumption to get this show on the road! My frog closures for my wrapper also finally arrived in the post yesterday. Now, I have to get these two projects cranked out so I can get going on the rest of my pre-Jackson sewing madness!

The Parasol of Destiny!

When I first started reenacting, I didn't realize how crucial it was to have a parasol. Laugh if you will--it's pretty much a necessity! Once you've used one for ten minutes and realized that having your own portable shade cools you off a solid ten degrees, you're spoiled for good. I've been meaning to get one for a while now, but hadn't run across any in the right style/price. Finally, I caved: I had some birthday money, and was getting one before my next event no matter what! I stalked eBay for a while, until I found... IT. The parasol.

I've always loved the lace ones, but they're always significantly more expensive than their plain silk counterparts. This one, with the carved handle to boot, was the most spectacular one I'd seen up for sale anywhere near the double digit price range. I stayed up late until the bidding came to a close, and won it for only $65!

I then ran around the house and told my brother how fashionable I was about to be approximately 62 times. It finally came the other day, and now I have to set to work on it so it's ready for Jackson at the end of the month. The ivory silk needs to be completely replaced, but the original lace is in very good shape minus a smattering of small holes that can be easily fixed.

Here are a few more shots of it, because I'm in love:

The underside, showing off the carved
handle and the lining.

Even the finial is carved all fancy-like!

Isn't it delightful!
(This shot makes the lace overhang
look longer than it really is.)

I've seen other originals lined in a light pink, and am considering something along those lines, depending on how ambitious I'm feeling once I reach the fabric store. A trip to Haberman's in Royal Oak tomorrow should supply me with the necessary materials... now if I can only get the pattern mock-up to go smoothly!

Progress posts will be made. Stay tuned! :)

The Epic Striped Wrapper, Part 1

Last weekend, I decided to whip up my new wrapper, which has been waiting to be made for a while now. I have one already, and it's hands-down the piece of clothing I use the most at events. It's so nice to have something to throw on in the mornings for breakfast, etc. without having to get completely dressed. (I always put my corset on before eating, which would force me to finish dressing for the day before food, hair, or anything else could really get done. Not good!) The making of another wrapper came less out of dissatisfaction with my first one, and more out of finding the BEST. WRAPPER. FABRIC. EVER!

Destiny? Destiny.

The moment I saw it, I knew it had to be a wrapper. That was last summer... since then, it's been pushed aside for other projects. In the wake of my Hastings sewing and with almost a month left until Jackson, it seemed like a good time to get it rolling.

I wanted to make a different style than I had previously, so I pored over every original wrapper I could find on the internet. (Not as daunting as it sounds... there aren't nearly as many examples as I would like!) I settled on a design that was comprised mostly of a single pattern of fabric, to highlight the stripes I am madly in love with. I also wanted pagoda sleeves, since half the beauty of a wrapper is lightness/coolness. I ended up with a cross between these:

   

I had bought a little bit of a complementary yellow fabric at Hastings, and decided to use that for jointed sleeves as in the second original. I set to work altering/drafting, and arrived at this!

It also fits over my hoop, which makes it
look more like the other examples.

The sleeves are jointed just above the elbow, and are very comfortable as a result. I shortened them a little bit, so as to keep them out of the way. (They fall about halfway down my forearm.) My next step is to add front panels in the yellow cotton, which will be fastened with ten navy blue frog closures that I bought on Etsy: 

I am looking forward to the frogs, as my current wrapper is closed with a double row of buttons. Not very quick to get on and off! My favorite part of this one so far is the back. I decided to try a V pattern, and was very taken with the result:

Looks lopsided, but isn't really.

And just because I love it, here's a closeup at the waist:

Cartridge pleats and contrasting piping... yum! :)

 I'm hoping the frogs come soon, so that I can put them on and get it finished up. After that, all I have to do is hem the neckline and the bottom. Then, it will be belted, probably with a navy blue cord to match the frogs. All in all, it went together pretty quickly!

Civil War Sheet Music!

For those who are musically inclined, I have discovered a most exciting resource: Duke University's online Civil War Sheet Music Collection!!

I was looking for some original sheet music to Battle Cry of Freedom when I stumbled across this goldmine. Finding scores of digitized original sheet music that can be downloaded freely and legally was beyond exciting. Since then, I've been jamming on the piano to such classics as When This Cruel War is Over, Marching Through Georgia, and The Bonnie Blue Flag. So what are you waiting for? Head over here and join me in Civil War-era musical reverie!

A few delicious sheet music covers. Even if you

don't play, you've gotta at least take a look at them!

Note: They also have sheet music from many other eras and on many other topics. I just happen to have a little bit of an obsession with the Civil War era, and therefore was drawn exclusively to that part of the site.

Miracle Corset!

I just had to share this piece recently featured by "Two Nerdy History Girls" that totally rocked my world--a corset that laces itself! Too good to be true? Ha! Not anymore!

Front: Strings are attached to tabs,

which then get together tied in front.

Back: A string per pair of holes,

wrapping around to the front.

Genius? I think so! Despite the fact that it's later (the museum dates it to the 1830s-1840s but the lacing was probably installed afterwards), I am going to try this on my teal stays (if I ever finish them). It may not be accurate for that time, but if anyone gets close enough to tell... well... they shouldn't be so close. In the meantime, I will be able to dress myself, and will not get stuck in my stays if there's no one around to free me! I'd try it on my Victorian one too, but that one laces up a little differently every time I wear it, and thus would not be as efficient.

Check out the original post over here, or see the LACMA Museum page for more images and higher resolutions here.

The 18thC Bug Strikes Again!

This summer, I've been volunteering at a local museum and working with their exhibits group. We just finished our newest exhibit, which focuses on the First Ladies. For the opening last night, they had a few costumed interpreters dressed like first ladies, and I was asked to be Abigail Adams! (Coincidentally my favorite first lady... :D) A lovely woman whom I know from both the museum and reenacting lent me a complete 18thC outfit, including underpinnings and a silk dress she made, and *drumroll* a cap, fichu, pearl wedding necklace, and earrings THAT WERE ALL ORIGINAL PIECES FROM THE 1770s!!!!! I was so excited I almost passed out. In this awesome ensemble, I wandered around the museum and told visitors about my famous husband and son, and my time in the White House. My family and a friend even came to see me! All in all, it was a wonderful evening.

Chilling with my pals Martha Washington and Dolley Madison
Photo Credit: John McKay at the Plymouth Canton Patch

(To see the rest of the article, go here.)

But now...

My pining after my very own 18thC outfit has grown to become unbearable. I went to the custom corset pattern generator (link!) earlier, which I've had in the back of my mind for some time now, and made myself a pattern for stays. They're a little early for Rev War, but should do the trick of squashing me flat as a board without too much trouble or the cost of another pattern. I then found a piece of fabric that was exactly the right size and weight in my stash, which was left over from making my Civil War reticule. Destiny? I think so. It's a lovely thick teal moiree, which I think will look stunning with the white binding I'm planning. I am lining the stays with the ticking fabric that I recently found in the JoAnn's remnant bin. (At about $6 for 3/4 yard, I couldn't resist. I have a longstanding love affair with ticking fabric, and no idea why.) I knew it would come in handy--it's a bit sturdier than most cottons, and I expect it to wear up decently well. I may still have to stick a layer of canvas in to thicken it up--we'll see! Now to raid my sewing stash for every inch of boning I have, and I'll be off! This will be verrrry interesting, as I've never attempted a corset or stays of any type before. I guess I have to start somewhere, and this looks easier than the Victorian corset that's also on my sewing list!

The pattern cut out on the fold.

No, the ticking stripe color does not match the teal.

No, this does not bother me.

They do not call me "She-who-starts-189-projects-at-once-and-thus-finishes-them-all-very-slowly" for nothing. (Well, if anyone did, it would be warranted anyhow...) In my defense, I'm over half done with my patriotic apron star appliques, and got a good chunk of the hemming done earlier. I still plan to have it done for Hastings, as well as my new hat! The new stays will be more of a side project, for when I'm not busy with Civil War sewing.

One last bit of news: I am currently in the middle of a giant Horatio Hornblower binge, having been introduced to it by a friend. So good! Highly recommended. I like it even better then Sharpe, though they're both great Napoleonic Wars dramas.

Plaid/Waist/Garibaldi Outfit!!

Here is the background of my latest full outfit. To start off with, here's a Godey's plate from August 1862. I'll be sporting it starting in the end of May '62, but that's close enough as far as I'm concerned. Besides, I'm sure it will be worn in August as well!

See the lady in the middle with the black waist and

pink skirt? Bingo! That'll be me, with a few alterations...

Here is a similar photographic representation:

Think this, except with a plaid skirt

with a big-ish pleated hem. It'll be rockin'.
(I also like the same-color bodice and skirt...
maybe for another outfit someday?!)

I really like the Swiss Waists with the shoulder straps, and happened to have some extra burgundy taffeta lying around. As soon as I realized how well it would go with my new plaid skirt... destiny! Looking at some other period examples of similar waists, I chose to do a neckline closer to the photo than to the plate. And a little bias-cut self trimming never did anyone any harm, additionally evidenced by this stylish young lady. I also find the little bowtie on the tintype completely adorable, and plan to add one to my finished outfit.

The final result will largely be a cross between these two images: the contrasting waist and trimmed skirt from the plate, and the shape and decoration of the waist from the tintype. I'm so excited!! The waist is all cut out, but I haven't started assembling it yet. The plaid skirt has a couple of feet of pleating left to set, but all of the fabric is cut and hemmed. I ran a couple feet short on velvet ribbon, but reinforcements are in the mail and should come by this weekend. (Boy, did I undershoot for this project... I usually overestimate, not underestimate!) I have to put another sleeve on my garibaldi blouse, and shorten the one that's already on, as it's a little longer than I would like. All in all, there's a bit left to do, but it's definitely manageable, as I have over a week left. Hopefully I'll also have time to touch up my black swiss dot dress as well, so I can debut that too!

1862 trendiness, here I come!

Black Sheer Dress!

I made a black sheer at the end of last summer, but haven't gotten to wear it yet. All I have to do before it's finished is to tweak the fitting on the bodice, add a few final hook and eyes to the under-bodice, and self-trim it a bit. I'm super excited to debut it this season (hopefully one of my events will stay under 80° since it is black... doubtful, but I can hope!) I'll hopefully take some photos of it once I'm home from school at the end of next week.

Here's the dress that inspired it: (photo was swiped from Historical Sewing's post)

Gorgeous, right?!

I used black dotted swiss, because I had been actively looking for an opportunity make something of that fine fabric :) Mine has bishop sleeves instead of the pagodas that Princess Helena is sporting, and I didn't add the tucks at the bottom of the skirt. I'm thinking of trimming it with black ribbon where the tucks would be, though, to achieve a similar look without the extra yardage. Aaah I just adore this dress!

After finals are done, I'll be working on this, and my aforementioned plaid taffeta skirt/Garibaldi blouse/burgundy Swiss waist outfit.

And now... back to the insanity of show week followed by finals! I just bought an arm and a leg and several fingers' worth of frames, mat board and glass... I'll have to get to working when I get back home so I can continue to finance my sewing addiction!

Getting Ideas...

Remember the exciting fabric I got at Kalamazoo?

(Here it is again... beautiful, cheery embroidered cotton!)

Well, I think I've found what I am going to make with it:

I was reading American Duchess' blog (a perennial favorite) and found this piece. I'd been brainstorming a Rev War era project that wouldn't take too much fabric (since I only have a little over a yard and a half of 54" wide, not enough for a polonaise or something of that sort), and instantly fell in love with this 1784 pierrot. It's even a floral stripe of the same size... destiny!!! It's post-war, but I'm not too bothered by that... now I just have to make stays, undergarments, and a petticoat to go with it. It'll be a while before I'm outfitted in 18th C since I still have a lot of Civil War and Bustle era projects in the works, but I'm excited to  start, especially now that I have an official inspiration piece!

It's Tuesday...

Buuut it feels like at least Friday. This has by far been the craziest week of the semester, and it's only halfway through. Now just one more art project to turn in, and one more exam until I can chill for a little bit. Good thing we have Friday off for Easter, I'll need it to recover!

I leave you with a picture of the 1860s ballgown I am currently in love with:

Isn't it crazy delicious?! I want to reproduce it super badly. Someday...