Just a quick update:
I am running around like a chicken with its head and both of its wings cut off. (Yes, it's that intense.) But all of this pandemonium will come to an end on Wednesday! Which is both exhilarating and utterly terrifying at once. As I have about a month left of work to do in the next few days, I obviously won't be posting anything interesting until my much-awaited break is upon me. Once that hits, I can finally start posting sewing projects again!! My projects for break are slated to be:
- Cravats. Lots of cravats.
- A new ballgown! (To be worn in February)
- A corset cover (if I get to it)
- New chemise and drawers
- A shirt and pants for my brother (it's kind of cheating to put these on the list because he'll be doing the bulk of the work on them, but I'll be teaching him and helping out as he goes. I think I'll make a guys' shirt along with him, so that I'll be able to do so again in the future!)
That should keep me busy, since I'll also be chilling over at the museum, working on some research for my thesis project next semester, applying for jobs/internships, writing scholarship essays, going up north with my family, reading a handful of books, and learning rudimentary level German. Breaks are not, as commonly supposed, for laying around and sleeping. :) But I'm so excited for all of this... now just to finish four graphic design projects, do a paper and presentation, study for and take a few finals, clean out my painting studio area, pack up my house, and hit the road!
Saturday, December 8, 2012
Sunday, November 25, 2012
Thanksgiving and a Cravat
The title pretty much sums it up. Between going home, the Thanksgiving festivities, a smattering of other events, and still trying to cram in as much homework as possible, I stayed pretty busy this weekend!
As I positively pine away for sewing while I'm at school, I did fit a few quick projects in while I was home. The first was to hem up a little tree skirt for my mom, which emerged out of a remnant from her stash. After that, the sewing machine was out and threaded, so I decided to keep going. I wanted to make a few cravats for my brother (he just started reenacting, and I couldn't resist the irony of giving him "ties" for Christmas) so I went to the great wealth of knowledge that is the internet and tracked down a tutorial. I found a marvelous one from Sarah over at Romantic History (check it out here!), and after tweaking it a little for a different look, here is the result!
For the fabric, I used a remnant from my Swiss Body project. The burgundy/black changeable taffeta looks quite sharp in cravat form! It still wants a neckband... I'll add one after I give it to him, to make sure that it will be the right length. I'm planning on making a similar one for myself, too, to wear with the Swiss Body of the same color. It was a quick project--I'd say easily under an hour, even though it was my first one. I'll definitely be making more... lots more! I have a whole stack of fabrics that are now waiting to be transformed into a colorful variety of cravat shapes. Stripes, solids, prints, plaids, single bow, double bow, loose ends, small, large, wide, thin... the possibilities are endless! I have a feeling that my brother will soon have a different necktie for every day of the month. I hope he likes them ;)
As I positively pine away for sewing while I'm at school, I did fit a few quick projects in while I was home. The first was to hem up a little tree skirt for my mom, which emerged out of a remnant from her stash. After that, the sewing machine was out and threaded, so I decided to keep going. I wanted to make a few cravats for my brother (he just started reenacting, and I couldn't resist the irony of giving him "ties" for Christmas) so I went to the great wealth of knowledge that is the internet and tracked down a tutorial. I found a marvelous one from Sarah over at Romantic History (check it out here!), and after tweaking it a little for a different look, here is the result!
 |
| I am quite in love with it! |
For the fabric, I used a remnant from my Swiss Body project. The burgundy/black changeable taffeta looks quite sharp in cravat form! It still wants a neckband... I'll add one after I give it to him, to make sure that it will be the right length. I'm planning on making a similar one for myself, too, to wear with the Swiss Body of the same color. It was a quick project--I'd say easily under an hour, even though it was my first one. I'll definitely be making more... lots more! I have a whole stack of fabrics that are now waiting to be transformed into a colorful variety of cravat shapes. Stripes, solids, prints, plaids, single bow, double bow, loose ends, small, large, wide, thin... the possibilities are endless! I have a feeling that my brother will soon have a different necktie for every day of the month. I hope he likes them ;)
Monday, November 19, 2012
New (To Me) Victorian Jewelry
I have been on a bit of an ebay kick lately. As a rule, most of the things I put on my watch list either:
A) Rocket up out of my price range, or
B) Are forgotten about on until bidding has already ended.
However, in the past few weeks, I've been lucky enough to snag a few lovely pieces of Victorian jewelry at a very reasonable price.
Piece #1: Signet Ring
This lovely little piece was perfect for me. It was re-sized at some point to around a 6, which fits on my pointer/left thumb. (I have tiny little hands.) And, most excitingly, it's engraved with a lovely letter "E"! Usually, my initials are hard to come by. The condition is lovely, and the detail is wonderful. I am a big fan.
Piece #2: Buckle Bracelet
I have been wanting a buckle forever, and couldn't believe I won this one for under $20 including shipping! It's in excellent condition, with a working clasp and hinge and good clear engraving. It's also on the small side, which makes it perfect for my little wrists/hands, as most bangle style bracelets slide right off.
I got to debut the buckle at Wolcott, but the ring didn't arrive until a few days later. I can't wait to sport them together at my next event, which at present looks to be the Midwinter's Ball in February. Until then, I can wear them around with my modern clothes.(Which I may or may not be doing already...) I can't even pick a favorite between the two... I just love them both to bits!
Currently occupying the top slot on my accessories wishlist is a pair of original earrings, but those are reaaaally challenging to find to fit a college budget. I'd settle for a solid pair of repros, but those too are hard to come by. I'll have to keep an eye out--that's paid off so far!
A) Rocket up out of my price range, or
B) Are forgotten about on until bidding has already ended.
However, in the past few weeks, I've been lucky enough to snag a few lovely pieces of Victorian jewelry at a very reasonable price.
Piece #1: Signet Ring
 |
| I seriously tried 20 times to get a crisp picture. |
This lovely little piece was perfect for me. It was re-sized at some point to around a 6, which fits on my pointer/left thumb. (I have tiny little hands.) And, most excitingly, it's engraved with a lovely letter "E"! Usually, my initials are hard to come by. The condition is lovely, and the detail is wonderful. I am a big fan.
Piece #2: Buckle Bracelet
 |
| It's more of an oval shape, but looks round from this angle. The way it's made, the buckle sits off to one side. |
I have been wanting a buckle forever, and couldn't believe I won this one for under $20 including shipping! It's in excellent condition, with a working clasp and hinge and good clear engraving. It's also on the small side, which makes it perfect for my little wrists/hands, as most bangle style bracelets slide right off.
I got to debut the buckle at Wolcott, but the ring didn't arrive until a few days later. I can't wait to sport them together at my next event, which at present looks to be the Midwinter's Ball in February. Until then, I can wear them around with my modern clothes.
 |
| They go so nicely together! |
Currently occupying the top slot on my accessories wishlist is a pair of original earrings, but those are reaaaally challenging to find to fit a college budget. I'd settle for a solid pair of repros, but those too are hard to come by. I'll have to keep an eye out--that's paid off so far!
Thursday, November 15, 2012
Flirtation, Victorian Style
Whew, I submitted my biggest term paper of the semester last night. In Mother Russia, research projects finish you! (I love my Russian History class, but... dang.)
In the light spirit which this places me, here's an interesting alternative to flirting with a fan. I present to you: how to flirt with gloves, a handkerchief, and a parasol! Darn, if only the guys knew this code too... I would be the biggest flirt in camp!*
I really love the flirting codes, language of flowers, etc. Sending someone ambrosia and celandine or skilfully wielding a handkerchief beats out sending a text message any day of the week.
*actually not true
Friday, November 9, 2012
Corset Cover Research
I really need a corset cover to go under my Garibaldi. The way my old corset was made, it didn't peek up much under my Swiss Body. My chemise served just fine as the underbodice, so I never worried about it overmuch. However, my new corset is cut a good inch or two higher in the front, and consequently shows. Thus, I have been looking for a style of corset cover to pattern something after when I'm on break, and can buckle down and make one. Here are some images I've come across that I really like! (Found on Google images and Pinterest.)
 |
| Cool sleeves! But would they get bunchy? |
 |
| I like the huuuge trim on this one! And also the wide decolletage. |
I like these two a lot, and plan to do something toward one or the other. They both have a nice shape, and the lace adds some nice decoration without adding loads of time.
I'll probably *coughdefinitelycough* go with something simpler that doesn't involve hours of embroidery, but I loved these other examples I found and had to post them.
 |
| 1869. So, a little late. But super cute! |
 |
| From the '70s, so it's also a little late, but DANG! I want it. A lot. |
Tuesday, October 30, 2012
Wolcott Mill!
Providence shone upon me this year in the form of scheduling, and placed my fall break and the Wolcott Mill reenactment on the same weekend. Usually, Wolcott is the weekend before and coincides with midterms, which puts attending pretty much out of the question. So while I wasn't able to camp this year, I was able to daytrip out for part of Saturday! It was chilly and damp, but I was just thrilled to be dressed and at an event.
Since I haven't done any fall events before, my entire wardrobe is geared for summer weather. I decided to wear the "Black Hole" dress, and accessorized with a pashima shawl, kid leather gloves, a black velvet belt with a mother of pearl buckle, a jet and gold brooch, my little reticule, and my new boots from Jackson. In order to stay warm in my thin cotton, I cheated a bit and layered a black long-sleeved shirt under the dress. I also lived on the scandalous side and went without a bonnet or hat, as it was unseasonably late for straw, and I haven't gotten around to making anything of silk or wool yet. One of these days!
The military portrayed the Battle of Sheperdstown, fought just after Antietam in September of '62. I was there for Part I, by the end of which the Union had swept the field. (According to my history, however, the ultimate victory in Part II went to the South.)
Overall, it was a lovely event. I hope to camp for this one after I'm done with college and can take a weekend away without worrying about the piles of homework I'm leaving behind. Until then, I'll have to start in on some warmer clothes. My purple plaid is pretty thick. If I let out the hem on that (which I have to do anyhow) and make a coat/cloak, hood, muff, and some flannel underpinnings, I should be ready to brave the October weather!
Since I haven't done any fall events before, my entire wardrobe is geared for summer weather. I decided to wear the "Black Hole" dress, and accessorized with a pashima shawl, kid leather gloves, a black velvet belt with a mother of pearl buckle, a jet and gold brooch, my little reticule, and my new boots from Jackson. In order to stay warm in my thin cotton, I cheated a bit and layered a black long-sleeved shirt under the dress. I also lived on the scandalous side and went without a bonnet or hat, as it was unseasonably late for straw, and I haven't gotten around to making anything of silk or wool yet. One of these days!
 |
| The whole ensemble! |
The military portrayed the Battle of Sheperdstown, fought just after Antietam in September of '62. I was there for Part I, by the end of which the Union had swept the field. (According to my history, however, the ultimate victory in Part II went to the South.)
 |
| The Confederate skirmish line towards the beginning of the battle. |
Overall, it was a lovely event. I hope to camp for this one after I'm done with college and can take a weekend away without worrying about the piles of homework I'm leaving behind. Until then, I'll have to start in on some warmer clothes. My purple plaid is pretty thick. If I let out the hem on that (which I have to do anyhow) and make a coat/cloak, hood, muff, and some flannel underpinnings, I should be ready to brave the October weather!
Sunday, October 28, 2012
New Corset!
[Sorry for the long hiatus! I've been totally swamped with school, but now have a few posts to put up. This one's been written up in the queue for a while, but I just now finally got around to sticking the pictures in.]
Towards the end of the summer, I put on my corset to get ready to docent at my historical village, for which I dress to the Civil War era. I snapped the busk together and proceeded to pull on the lacing. Without too much tugging it stopped tightening, but wasn't nearly snug yet. I checked in the mirror, and sure enough, it had finally laced up all the way in the back with room to spare. Not good! With the Jackson reenactment approaching (the enormous crowning jewel of the summer reenacting season) I did not want to be parading around in an ill-fitted corset, which correspondingly would not support my back and hoop. So I finally got on the ball, and called up my friend to help me whip up a new one. It was a bit of a whirlwind, (hence scant/nonexistent process photos) but here is the general rundown of the project:
Stage 1: Mockup
Pretty self explanatory. I used my friend's pattern as we're a similar size (I'm a little shorter and rounder, but it worked just the same) and cut out the mockup in a fabric that doesn't stretch. I was confused as to fitting something with two closures with a projected gap in the back. Solution: sew a 2"-3" strip in the back where you want the lacing gap to be, and fit the rest as usual. Brilliant!
Stage 2: Cut out all 34857 pieces
Seriously, there are that many. Gussets here, gussets there... and every piece needs to be cut out in all of the different fabric types. (Lining, canvas, and outer fabric, with more optional fashion fabric.) Snip away!
Stage 3: Sew all 34857 pieces together
3a. Sewed canvas and lining together
3b. Assembled attached canvas and lining
3c. Assembled fashion/outer fabric... partially.
Stage 4: Boning and Busk
Boned the lining/canvas pieces, then attached the outer fabric and stuck the busk in. Not necessarily in that order. This stage closely resembled total chaos. I wound up with a 12" busk, and I think I ended up using 26 or 28 bones total.
Stage 5: Grommets
Ahh. Something I already knew how to do, at last. I used some borrowed awls to make the holes, to avoid fraying that would come from punching holes. Then I stuck in 30 grommets with the Crop-O-Dile that I have stolen from my mom for a countless number of projects.
Stage 6: TRY IT ON NOW
For real. So important! Mine ended up getting a full couple of inches longer after it was boned. Like, I-can't-sit-down-in-this-long. A few bones also hit in uncomfortable spots. (ie. jabbing me in the armpit and causing me to permanently hunch my shoulders. Not good!) My dear brother and father cut the bones down to the proper length, and I was able to adjust things so that it fit well. Crisis averted... fortunately before there was casing to rip off!
Stage 7: Casing
I admit, I did not do this stage justice. It was the last step and was getting close to the event. (Like, "four hours" close.) So I whipped some bias-cut canvas casing on with the machine, bent two sewing machine needles by going too close to some bones, and got it together enough to wear.
Stage 8: Lace it all up
I like mine laced in three sections, so that I can easily get it on and off myself as I often have to dress without assistance. I'm not sure how accurate that system is, but hey, it's not visible anyhow! I ended up with 15 grommets per side, which neatly divided into sections of 5 pairs per lace. (I ended up using around 8 yards of lacing, but could have definitely gotten away with 7. Better safe than sorry, though... trimming is always an option!)
Stage 9: Look fabulous, in increased comfort!
I love my new corset! It was in places tricky, tedious, and a little frustrating, but all in all it was very worth it. If it comes down to it again, I'll definitely make another one over buying it.
And here, finally, are some photos!
EDIT: When I made the corset in August, there was a beautiful, perfect 2-inch gap down the back. I have since lost more weight, and now my new corset is lacing all the way up, too! Agh! I'm happy to have thinned down, though... I can always make adjustments. The side seams are still raw, so I'll probably start by pulling those in a bit where they're not too close to the bones.
Towards the end of the summer, I put on my corset to get ready to docent at my historical village, for which I dress to the Civil War era. I snapped the busk together and proceeded to pull on the lacing. Without too much tugging it stopped tightening, but wasn't nearly snug yet. I checked in the mirror, and sure enough, it had finally laced up all the way in the back with room to spare. Not good! With the Jackson reenactment approaching (the enormous crowning jewel of the summer reenacting season) I did not want to be parading around in an ill-fitted corset, which correspondingly would not support my back and hoop. So I finally got on the ball, and called up my friend to help me whip up a new one. It was a bit of a whirlwind, (hence scant/nonexistent process photos) but here is the general rundown of the project:
Stage 1: Mockup
Pretty self explanatory. I used my friend's pattern as we're a similar size (I'm a little shorter and rounder, but it worked just the same) and cut out the mockup in a fabric that doesn't stretch. I was confused as to fitting something with two closures with a projected gap in the back. Solution: sew a 2"-3" strip in the back where you want the lacing gap to be, and fit the rest as usual. Brilliant!
 |
| Many, many pins in the mockup! |
Stage 2: Cut out all 34857 pieces
Seriously, there are that many. Gussets here, gussets there... and every piece needs to be cut out in all of the different fabric types. (Lining, canvas, and outer fabric, with more optional fashion fabric.) Snip away!
Stage 3: Sew all 34857 pieces together
3a. Sewed canvas and lining together
3b. Assembled attached canvas and lining
3c. Assembled fashion/outer fabric... partially.
Stage 4: Boning and Busk
Boned the lining/canvas pieces, then attached the outer fabric and stuck the busk in. Not necessarily in that order. This stage closely resembled total chaos. I wound up with a 12" busk, and I think I ended up using 26 or 28 bones total.
Stage 5: Grommets
Ahh. Something I already knew how to do, at last. I used some borrowed awls to make the holes, to avoid fraying that would come from punching holes. Then I stuck in 30 grommets with the Crop-O-Dile that I have stolen from my mom for a countless number of projects.
Stage 6: TRY IT ON NOW
For real. So important! Mine ended up getting a full couple of inches longer after it was boned. Like, I-can't-sit-down-in-this-long. A few bones also hit in uncomfortable spots. (ie. jabbing me in the armpit and causing me to permanently hunch my shoulders. Not good!) My dear brother and father cut the bones down to the proper length, and I was able to adjust things so that it fit well. Crisis averted... fortunately before there was casing to rip off!
Stage 7: Casing
I admit, I did not do this stage justice. It was the last step and was getting close to the event. (Like, "four hours" close.) So I whipped some bias-cut canvas casing on with the machine, bent two sewing machine needles by going too close to some bones, and got it together enough to wear.
Stage 8: Lace it all up
I like mine laced in three sections, so that I can easily get it on and off myself as I often have to dress without assistance. I'm not sure how accurate that system is, but hey, it's not visible anyhow! I ended up with 15 grommets per side, which neatly divided into sections of 5 pairs per lace. (I ended up using around 8 yards of lacing, but could have definitely gotten away with 7. Better safe than sorry, though... trimming is always an option!)
Stage 9: Look fabulous, in increased comfort!
I love my new corset! It was in places tricky, tedious, and a little frustrating, but all in all it was very worth it. If it comes down to it again, I'll definitely make another one over buying it.
And here, finally, are some photos!
 |
| The finished product. Off, it looks pretty shapeless. But it's not!! |
 |
| Purple stitching! |
 |
| Business on the outside... |
 |
| Party on the inside! I was talked into using my plaid mockup as a colorful lining. Here, you can partially see where I ended up putting my bones. |
EDIT: When I made the corset in August, there was a beautiful, perfect 2-inch gap down the back. I have since lost more weight, and now my new corset is lacing all the way up, too! Agh! I'm happy to have thinned down, though... I can always make adjustments. The side seams are still raw, so I'll probably start by pulling those in a bit where they're not too close to the bones.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)